THURSDAY, JUNE 1, 2006 – Dent Island to Boughey Bay
Thursday morning brought more rain and low overcast. We left the dock at 0745 to go through Dent Rapids. It was about 15 minutes prior to slack, but we also had to go through Greenpointe Rapids further on. It was uneventful, but we did spot some dolphins playing right past the rapids.
By 0940 we were past Greenpointe Rapids and getting a major push from the ebb tide. At one point we saw 12.7 knots through the water. That’s really good for us!! By 1345 we were anchored at the head of Boughey Bay with Koinonia rafted up along side. Boughey Bay is a picturesque anchorage with thickly forested hills surrounding it.
It was really rainy and cold, but the guys took the dinghies and laid traps and went fishing while Roseanne & I worked on our cribbage tournament.
By dinner time, we had caught enough crab to make a meal and the Joshes had discovered a river at the head of the bay. After a delicious meal of fresh crab, the guys headed to the river to do some fly fishing. When they weren’t back by dark, I radioed them and they were on their way back, but they had beached the dinghy with the tide going out, so they had to haul the dinghy a bit to get it back in the water. All was well though, and they got back safely, having caught (& released) a bunch of small cutthroat trout.
FRIDAY, JUNE 2, 2006 – Boughey Bay to Kwatsi Bay
We had hoped to leave the bay at 0900 to be at Kwatsi by noon, but we had some unanticipated excitement.
The Joshes had so much fun fly fishing the day before that they had gotten up early to go back to the river and hike further up in search of bigger fish. By 0850, they had not shown up at the boat. Mark and John took Mark’s dinghy to go find them. Sure enough, the dinghy was beached on the rocky shore about 50 yards from the waterline. Once again, they had misread the tides, thinking that the tide was rising when it was in fact falling. John found the boys up the river and the 4 of them carried our 500 pound dinghy back into the water. By the time they all got back to the boats, Roseanne and I had cleaned the crabs (more crab!) and got the pots put away. The dinghies were lifted, things stowed and we were off – oops…..except we couldn’t get the sliding door that goes from our pilothouse to our flybridge closed. Apparently, a screw had worked loose in the track and was now jamming the door in place. It took some effort (and a crowbar), but the guys finally got the rest of the screws broken out, the errant screw out of the way and the track removed. (Are we still having fun?) And oh yeah, today is my 50th birthday.
Well, we finally got underway at 1030, made our way through Chatham Channel and up into Tribune Channel. I remembered this portion of the Broughtons as being beautiful, but really, memories and words cannot do it justice. It is stunning, lined with snow-capped mountain peaks that fall straight into the calm waters. Tons of waterfalls rush down the steep mountains between the trees. It made all the morning’s angst dissolve.
After a major picture taking frenzy, we arrived in Kwatsi Bay and were tied up to Max and Anca’s dock by 1345. There were 2 other boats already tied up who were home ported in Sequim, so of course they knew Jerry and Linda from Island Star III. Max announced cocktails on the dock at 1700. In the meantime, I had gotten showered with gifts – I’m sure you are familiar with the type – survival kits for being old that everybody thinks are so funny. Ha-ha. Did I mention that John had decorated the entire salon with streamers?
Cocktails on the dock were delightful in spite of the pouring rain. Anca was in Port McNeill with the kids for the day so it was just Max and all of us from the boats. The Sequim contingent were delightful and it turned out that they were going on to Sullivan Bay to meet up with Jerry and Linda. We’ll probably see them up there.
Dinner for my birthday was prepared on board Mystic Moon -- lobster, steak, champagne, baked potatoes, asparagus & mushrooms, and salad – by the guys (with a little help from Roseanne J ). Josh Flaherty had brought us a bottle of Veuve Grande Dame so we thoroughly enjoyed that (thanks, Josh!) and Roseanne made a chocolate cake for dessert. The whole dinner was great fun and a CO (culinary orgasm) to boot. There are way worse things than turning 50 in beautiful Kwatsi Bay with wonderful friends and family on your boat! I’m truly blessed!!
SATURDAY, JUNE 3, 2006 – Still Raining…But…Prawns!
The day after was still overcast and damp. Roseanne and I had wanted to kayak here, but the rain and chill were just not very inviting. John & Mark set all the traps, and they took Mark’s dinghy up to “Shatter Pole Point” to fish. No lingcod, Bob, but no broken poles either ;) . I tidied up the salon, pulling down the 50 streamers John had so lovingly put up and generally putzed. The Joshes took our dinghy over to Bond Sound to fly fish the Auta River. Bond Sound is the next bay over and we had taken the dinghy there last year. It is breathtaking scenery and wilderness, and Max had said there were cutthroat to be had there. I gave them the airhorn because grizzlies are very much a presence here, in addition to giving them the mom lecture about being careful and watching the….drumroll…..tides. Think they have finally figured it out as they spent a fair amount of time looking at the chart and the tide tables.
Roseanne and I decided we’d finish our cribbage tournament as they have to turn back tomorrow to head home, and we both were eager to play it out. (Yes, she won and I lost, much to her delight and my chagrin [she has taught me this game and I still think she’s making up the rules as she goes J] ). After losing, I consoled myself (and Roseanne celebrated) by going to Anca’s shop and buying the honey (it is really, really good!) and a new fleece. And oh yeah, some chocolate.
John got the track reinstalled on the flybridge so we now have a functioning door from the pilothouse and he also got the fuse installed that Josh brought for the alternator. The rain let up, and finally quit. The Joshes returned with dinghy intact and three 12” cutthroat trout (and a story of a major dolphin encounter – they had the resident Pacific Whitesided Dolphins come to play with the dinghy – thrilling experience -- Josh F. even touched one! They also saw fresh grizzly tracks, but thankfully not the bear itself!). John pulled the prawn pot and we had 60 prawns in it! Woo-hoo! All in all, things were lookin’ good!
We had cocktails on the dock again, this time with Max, Anca, and Marieka there (Russel was at a friend’s house for the night) and a couple off a Krogen 39 from Oklahoma. Very interesting and friendly couple.
We retired to Mystic Moon to enjoy our last dinner together. It was so sad to think this was our last meal with the Tildens, but we definitely did it in style: Baked whitefish topped with fresh crabmeat mixed into a parmesian béarnaise sauce. (Bob & Cheryl, you would have been so proud!) Yeah, okay, it was to die for (another CO) and we called it Lingcrab Youngden. Oh, and don’t forget those fresh prawns on the side! They were amazing – so much sweeter than what you get at Safeway! Roseanne made a delicious blackberry cobbler for dessert and we still had ice cream left to go on top. Gotta love those Gap jeans with the spandex in them!!
Before we went to bed, we checked the sky and it was crystal clear, the waters were a mirror and we again had stars reflected all around us, above and below.
SUNDAY, JUNE 4, 2006 – Kwatsi Bay to Sullivan Bay
The skies had become partly cloudy by morning, but sunshine threatened. The guys retrieved the traps left out, we loaded the dinghy onto the flybridge and prepared to get underway. We said good-bye to Anca and Max and Marieka, and, with heavy hearts, good-bye to Mark and Roseanne. They are such wonderful people – we have had some of our best (and worst J ) moments with these two – they are very special to us. (We love ya, man!!) At the mouth of Kwatsi Bay, Koinonia turned southeast and her sistership Mystic Moon turned northwest.
Our trip to Sullivan Bay was quickly interrupted by the fact that our second alternator was still not working. After conferring with Mark via VHF (and you thought you were rid of us!) John went below and determined that the hot wire for the regulator had burned completely through. Good news is that they both thought John could replace the wire after arrival at Sullivan Bay. Bad news is they decided Koinonia could continue on her way. Oh well, one last try J !
Other than that, things were uneventful (I have grown to love that word!). Shortly before we got to Sullivan Bay, we saw several huge sealions eating salmon. They were flinging the salmon and jumping after it. It’s amazing those huge animals are so agile. Of course, the guys were more excited by the fact that there were salmon in the water!
We arrived in Sullivan at 1245 and tied up at their dock. Jerry and Linda were there to take our lines. So good to see them!!! We hardly got to visit with them at Rendezvous and were really anxious to spend some time with them.
Josh and Josh immediately went out to fish and John set about curing the regulator situation. Of course nothing is straight forward or simple, so he had to improvise on the set-up. It took the better part of the afternoon to get it right, but he finally got it so we are now back in business to charge all those batteries.
Sullivan Bay is very cute. They have built a little “town” on the floats. They have a store, fuel dock, restaurant and even a jail. The propane tanks are painted with scenery from the PNW and they have planted flowers and foliage all around. We had heard that Sullivans had wif-fi, but our signal was really low. We were able to retrieve our mail, but unfortunately, we kept losing the connection, so didn’t have time to add all these logs to the website. I have no idea when we’ll have a connection next – it could be Ketchikan. Oh well….it is what it is.
By 1700, the boat was in order, we’d been to the store (found my red onion, Roseanne!), filled up the gas cans for the dinghy and poured well-deserved drinks. Island Star was hosting cocktails so we went over and finally had a chance to catch up with Linda and Jerry. The other folks from Sequim were there and we all went to dinner at the restaurant. We had just a delightful evening with the group, and ended by having an early birthday party on Boondoggle for Linda’s 60th bday, which is later this month. It was so great to see Jerry & Linda – they really taught us so much when we first started out and they will forever hold a special place in our hearts! (And, they are just great people, too.) It was all too short, though, as usual.
The guys came home not empty handed, but with no salmon L . We hauled up the dinghy, stowed all the gear and got the boat ready to cross Queen Charlotte Strait and Sound. Tomorrow we were headed for Duncanby Lodge in Rivers Inlet. We are in search of salmon!!
MONDAY, JUNE 5, 2006 – Sullivan Bay to Duncanby Lodge Marina
John & I were up by 0515, as we wanted to take out by 0600. The forecast was the typical summer weather pattern with winds rising in the afternoon. We figured we had about 50nm to Cape Caution and another 20nm to get to Duncanby, so felt it was prudent to get any early start.
It was dead calm when we waved goodbye to Jerry at 0600, and it looked as if the skies might clear for the fist time in days and days. Wells Passage was peaceful and calm, and just before we entered Queen Charlotte Strait, we were joined by a pod of Pacific white-sided dolphins leaping and surfing off our bow. A couple of them leaped higher than the rail on our bowsprit, which is probably 10 feet off the water – it was something to see, I’ll tell you! They swam with us for 15 to 20 minutes and would turn on their sides and look up at us. It was quite a thrill, and I always take dolphins as a good omen!
The passage up the strait was very calm – we didn’t even use our stabies. There was zero wind, so the boys continued to sleep comfortably in their cabins. By 0915, there was still no wind, but we had picked up some short, steep swells on the bow. Not uncomfortable, but we did do some hobby-horsing – enough to bring the boys above deck. The sun came out of the clouds and we rounded Cape Caution at 1135.
We came into Duncanby at 1400 and tied to their dock. This is a lovely place. The docks look to be brand new and they have 30 amp power well placed. The restaurant is new, and nicely done, with a deck built up outside on the rocks. Very cute!
We got the dinghy down, traps laid and the guys out fishing in search of salmon. It felt good to be here, with the first sound behind us and having been safely crossed.
There was no joy in salmonville, so we consoled ourselves with a great meal in Duncanby’s restaurant. We watched the sunset from their windows, contented in spite of the lack of salmon.
TUESDAY, JUNE 6, 2006 – Here Fishy, Fishy, Fishy
Today is Josh Flaherty’s last day, and we are determined to catch salmon before he leaves! We got up and out by 0900 to take Mystic Moon trolling for salmon. We use our “get-home” engine to troll with downriggers off the stern of the boat. The guys here at the marina said the fishing had been slow, but they been catching some.
The sun is brightly shining and there are just a few cottony clouds in the sky. It’ll be a good day to catch salmon! Last night, the guys checked the crab traps after dark and we had 14 in the trap, of which 9 were huge male keepers! I had to cook them in 2 batches because they wouldn’t fit in my pot. Note to self: Get bigger crab pot J
While the guys fished, I made my Josh’s favorite boat (well, ok one of them) dishes – Eggs Oscar. It’s poached eggs on Enlish muffins with spinach, tomato, crab, and béarnaise sauce – a huge hit for the famished hunters!
Well, I’m sitting here in the pilothouse writing this, looking out at snow capped mountains in the distance while we troll 200 feet off the shoreline in 250 feet of water. It’s incredible how steep-to these shores are. Alas, it has been very slow. We had one monster salmon on and Josh F. was reeling him in. It was HUGE. Unfortunately, the line snapped while he was reeling in and yep, the big one got away L . We have caught a bunch of rockfish and several lingcod, all of which we released. Rockfish have a swim bladder, so they rarely survive when released, but the eagles had a field day, snatching them as soon as we threw them back in the water. We even had one guy try to take the fish before we had it reeled in to the boat. We were all yelling at him trying to scare him away. Don’t know what would have happened had he taken the fish with the rig still in his mouth. Cut the line maybe?? Reel in the eagle??
In spite of trolling until 1700, we had no other good strikes. The guys were definitely depressed by this time, but it was time to head back into Duncanby. We took our mooring back and stiff drinks were poured around, whilst I was trying to figure out what the heck to cook for dinner to cheer everyone up, since we all our mouths ready for salmon.
Prawn trap check cheered up the group just a little – we garnered 15 of them, but although they were quite large, they were not enough for dinner. Crab traps went a little further: We had 20 dungeness crabs between the 2 pots, with 15 of them being male keepers! I think that is our best haul yet! Dinner plans decided!! (BIGGER CRAB POT ASAP!!!)
By the way, when we pulled back into Duncanby, we were met at the dock by Stu and Carol Nesbitt from Prime Time II, which is a Selene 36. They are doing the BC coast until September and are just enjoying the beauty of this area at a leisurely pace. Really, there is so much to see up here – I know we’re missing much by plowing through. I wonder sometimes if we won’t eventually land back up here to do more cruising – somehow, I just have a feeling…..
WEDNESDAY, JUNE 7, 2006 – Goodbye to Josh F. and On to Pruth Bay
Josh’s plane was coming around 1215, so the Joshes decided to give one last try for the salmon and got up and out in the dinghy at 0600. John & I slept in. (Having these guys has been awesome, but really, it’s tough to keep up with the 20-something crowd!) We had a quiet cup of coffee and visited some more with Stu while waiting for the guys to return. Stu and Carol were headed for Fry Pan for the night and were in no rush to depart (key word: Leisurely J ). In the meantime, one of the guys from the resort had come in with a 34 pound salmon – spectacularly beautiful fish!
Alas, it was not to be…..the guys returned with long faces, having had just one strike, that they couldn’t set. Josh set about getting his things together and I made them one last round of Eggs Oscar.
The folks at Duncanby are really, really great, I must say. Dave, the chef, came by the boat and told us that they would like to freeze up that salmon and send it home with Josh, along with a bag of prawns. They offered to freeze, box it, and get it ready for the plane. Josh was ecstatic and quickly accepted. I gave him a couple of bags of crab to include in the box, so he would be well set with PNW bounty for some time to come. Kudos and many, many thanks to the folks at Duncanby for their kindness and thoughtfulness!! Any of you who are cruising up here, please stop by to moor or enjoy their restaurant. These guys are really working hard to make a top notch marina and resort.
Josh’s plane came at 1245 (1215, island time – more of a guideline) and we were off the dock by 1300. The winds were forecast to come up this afternoon, so we were anxious to make headway to get well into Fitz Hugh Sound before too late in the day. As we set out, there was a but if a current, but the winds were only blowing at 9.3 knots from the SW. By 1440, they had dropped to 5.7 knots, but had shifted to the North. By 1510, the winds had fully backed around to come from the NW at 23.4 knots. Our heavy displacement boat has no problem whatsoever in these type of winds, but the reason I mention this is that the increase in wind was so abrupt. It literally went from about 7 knots to upwards of 25 knots in a matter of minutes.
At any rate, we were the only boat anchored in Pruth Bay, and had finished putting on the anchor snubber by 1615. We quickly lowered the dinghy, as we wanted to walk to West Beach and had read that the owner of the luxury resort wanted all the dinghies off his dock by 1800. When we walked by the resort on our way to the trail, he called out to us and was very nice. The resort doesn’t open for another week or so, so he told us to take our time and not to worry.
The hike to the beach was only about .5 mile, but it felt good to be off the boat and just walk for a little bit. The beach itself was gorgeous. It is a very long, half moon shaped beach with a gently sloping white sand shore – not all that common on this part of the coast. We enjoyed walking along the sand and looking in the tide pools and rock formations (if you have a choice, go at low tide when you can get around the rock formations and really see the critters who hang out waiting for the tide to come back in.) The other cool thing is that you look out and see…..Japan. I remember that sort of strange feeling when we were on the Westside of Vancouver Island, but every time it is so weird to think that all that water comes so very far without impedence – can’t imagine what this beautiful beach would look like with those 80 knot winter storms.
After our beach excursion, we went back to Mystic Moon and had tacos for dinner – just needed a break from the seafood, I guess, but boy! Did they hit the spot! We even watched a little TV for one of the first times this cruise. A chill night was on the agenda.